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Cheflive Experiences a Unique Mistral
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            Nov 26, 2004 14:18 IST  
Chef André Rochat adds a fourth restaurant to the fine dining treasures of Las Vegas under his direction. Now André brings to us Mistral. French for a cold northwesterly wind, Mistral is anything but.

Chef André welcomes his newest Chef de Cuisine, Mark Purdy, who gained national recognition by utilizing seasonal and regional ingredients, often organic, at a host of nationally renowned Charlie Palmer properties. The French classics now enjoy a contemporary spin that will surprise and delight the unsuspecting aficionado. The menu is ever changing, based on regional growers and seasonal delicacies.
Upon entering the restaurant, just past the bar that looks out onto the casino from a safe distance, a tableside selection of champagne and fine liqueurs stands waiting for special requests. The décor is elegant, quiet, calmly lit, the colors soothing. You’ll quickly sense that you have entered a very unique space.


The wine list is extensive and award winning. Sommelier Melanie Dagenais will happily assist in selecting the perfect accompaniment to pair with your meal. You must have a look at the wine list, it is almost as stunning as the visual display of wine out front.

We started out with four different appetizers; each could have held their own as a premiere dish. There was parfait of smoked salmon, elegantly layered with crème fraiche and caviar with buckwheat blini. In another, my first experience with foie gras, set atop pears in a pecan and quince tempura batter surrounded by an autumnal bouquet of fruit glaze and frisée. Both were incredible, but the highlight of the appetizers, in my estimation, was the pumpkin risotto with cured duck hiding a delicate layer of pumpkin brittle. The flavors and texture were a thrill.

For a salad I recommend a signature from André’s collection, phyllo wrapped Anjou pears and Roquefort cheese accompanied by pecans and pumpkin seed vinaigrette, chef Purdy’s delightful twist. This paired astonishingly with André’s private label Chardonnay. All of the dishes endured a gleeful round of “musical chairs” as we marveled at one another’s plates, each offering their own tantalizing texture and flavor sensations.

A cranberry sorbet cleansed our busy palates, preparing us for the main course.

I ordered the venison, spiced for the season atop a kabocha squash ragout and braised red cabbage, surrounded by a glaze with chestnuts, shallots, Bermuda onions and huckleberries dancing throughout. Across the table was prosciutto wrapped Peking duck with pear sauce and cassoulet, crisp and savory. The most recommended dish seemed to be the smoked bacon and black truffle encrusted pork tenderloin drizzled with a truffle jus, alongside a stunning display of gruyere potato purée in a crisp, edible pastry mold. The pan seared rack of lamb completed the indulgence of culinary delight; precursor to the artistry that is the Mistral dessert menu.

We chose to let Tanya, our friendly and talented server, select our desserts, a tempting array of warm soufflé with vanilla sauce, a molten chocolate creation with pomegranate, phyllo-wrapped pumpkin turnovers with ginger ice cream, and a fluffy crisp puff pastry tarte tatin with warm apple and quince, surrounded with a smooth caramel rum sauce and huckleberries. The exquisite details make these desserts one-of-a-kind, truly unforgettable. Don’t come to Mistral and skip dessert.

There is no substitute for the care and impeccable preparation that goes into the dishes that the Mistral team put together, an orchestration of flavors and composition, under the direction of André Rochat and performed by Chef Mark Purdy. The ingredients are uncommonly fresh and bountiful, paired with each other to create an experience that is so much more than food. It becomes a form of artistic expression. The service is what you would expect from an André’s property, perhaps nowhere else. If you have expectations of leaving the Las Vegas Strip experience behind you for a few precious hours and taking in something extraordinary and soothing, Mistral will transcend those expectations.

We recommend the chef’s tasting menu for an all around sample of Mistral’s cuisine. You are sure to feel welcome anytime at Mistral, and the hearty, rustic, Fall menu couldn’t be more inviting.
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